Faviken is not a simple gastronomic experience but it inevitably complies a journey and that is the beauty behind the Faviken experience. In our case, the first seed of longing this experience was planted with Spanish Hipsters blog. My husband read about it and very excitedly urged me to read the post but the true impending desire bloomed when we saw Netflix’s Chef Table. We fell in love with Magnus Nilsson, with his commitment to his childhood area, his kms 0, seasonal cooking and a bond was made. We knew that we had to go to Faviken and this year for my birthday my husband gave me a trip up north to Stockholm, Copenhague and or course our desired Faviken.
After spending a few days in Stockholm, we flew up north to Östersund, where you literally land in the middle of a forest. The airport is tiny and you get to walk to the terminal. BTW, there is a quite popular ski resort in Are nearby in case you want to try the Swedish slopes. Once there, we rented a car. Eighty-nine kms separate the airport from Faviken. The drive up is beautiful where you seem to be driving through deserted roads, lined with pine trees, snow and frozen lakes. The air is crisp and tranquility reigns. Meanwhile the excitement increments, wanting to pinch yourself to make sure that you are really there, in the middle of Sweden on your way to Faviken.
When you drive up to the restaurant you immediately recognize the red farmhouse and the teepee. Your smile is ear-to-ear. You are promptly greeted, your car taken care of and you are shown to your room. The staff is warm and friendly making you feel like a guest at a friend’s countryhouse.
After we had settled into our rooms we decided to take a walk around the property and then we came back for a relaxing sauna to get our appetite ready for dinner.
We were kindly greeted my Magnus in the dining hall and were shown into the living room where the light is dim and the fire is crackling. Magnus’ fur coat hangs on the wall.
After appetizers you can either be shown upstairs where you are seated according to your party or you can stay downstairs in the living room and dine at the communal table for eight. We were seated at the latter. I have to openly admit that at first I wasn’t convinced as I thought that it might be uncomfortable to sit with perfect strangers. I was totally mistaken. As the night progressed, conversation started and we ended up having a ball.
When we had finished with desserts we were urged to have a cigar and drink outside in the teepee. Although it was cold out, the warm blankets and the fire kept us comfy. Over drinks and smoke we got more acquainted and ended up talking way into the night.
After a good night’s sleep we had breakfast, this time upstairs in the dining room. Rested and with our stomachs full, the time to say good bye had arrived.
I have to admit that Faviken was not the best mind boggling dinner of my life but it was an absolutely beautiful experience that I fondly recommend to any foodie.
The menu is extremely season but this is what we ate when we were there in April…
Linseed and vinegar crisps, mussel dip
Wholegrain wheat cracker with carrot salad
Broth of smoked and dried reindeer, decomposing leaves, very fresh curd and crowberries
Wild trout roe served in a crust of dried pig’s blood
Bird’s liver custard, malted cabbage, rowan berries and parsley stems
Pig’s head, dipped in sourdough and deep-fried, gooseberry, tarragon salt
Slices of cured pork
Scallop “i skalet ur elden” cooked over burning juniper branches
Cod steamed with spruce needles, fermented jerusalem artichoke
King crab and almost burnt cream
Sourdough pancake, seaweed, beef butter
Lupin curd gratin
Mahogany clam with beer vinegar
A small egg coated in ash, sauce made from dried trout and pickled marigold
Steamed kai-lan, very good cream and Finnish fish eggs
Quail, roasted and very finely ground lupin
Colostrum with meadowsweet
Raw jerusalem artichoke, dark roasted cereals
Silage ice cream
An egg yolk perserved in sugar syrup served on a pile of crumbs made from pine tree bark, ice cream seasoned with spruce
Bone marrow pudding, frozen mil
A wooden box filled with tar pastilles, meadowsweet candy, dried rowanberries, smoked caramel, sunflower seed nougat, dried black currants.
Meat and birch pie
Snus fermented in a used bitters barrel